Only in Auburn
Tales of Coping in a SmallTown

April 2, 2007


By Gary Moffat

Part I: For Some Reason, I Ain’t Feelin’ the Love
Not long ago, Carpe Vino received a letter from the City of Auburn. Whenever one of these ominous missiles lands in the mailbox, it is usually regarding something unpleasant—another license fee or we’re being dunned for Drew’s unpaid parking tickets.

At first I guessed this letter—delivered in a plain envelope—was from the Building Department about an issue related to our restaurant build out last year. After we installed the roof-top kitchen ventilation system, compliant with the city-mandated location for the equipment, we were instructed to move it because the Sputnik-like power vent could be seen from the street (like every other restaurant in Auburn). We offered to build a screen or paint the device any color the City requested, but we were told basically, “No, it must be moved.” My reaction was no problem. . .you guys cover the five grand it’s gonna cost, and we’ll happily shut down our business and move the vent where ever you say. . .again.

Well, that was roughly one year ago, and the City’s bureaucracy has been silent as we’ve operated the restaurant—quite successfully, I might add. Our permit is still open, however, and if we ever decided to sell the building, we could not do so with this defect unresolved.

So, I was a bit taken aback when the correspondence—prepared on special letterhead—was a greeting from the entire Auburn City Council saying, in effect, “You’ve got a great business, and we’re glad you are here.” I was shocked because, well. . .thanks to some of my expressions of personal opinion over the past year, there is a dearth of Carpe Vino boosters at City Hall these days.
The second time I read the letter, I noticed it was addressed to “Dear Carpe Vino.” Actually, there is no Mr. Carpe Vino, that’s a name we made up. Had the letter been addressed to “Drew, Laura and Gary,” I guess I would have felt truly warm and fuzzy.
Then as a marketing guy, I started thinking about why the City Council felt compelled to send out such a letter to Mr. Carpe Vino and presumably many other businesses in town. Such initiatives are typically triggered when there is a PR problem to be overcome, I don’t know.

What I do know is that the City of Auburn, like most every other community on the planet, wants to see new businesses established and existing businesses thrive. For this to happen, it is incumbent on the residents of the community to support their home-grown enterprises. Shop locally is the mantra, one oft-espoused by our City Council members.
This is a noble sentiment that would be even more powerful if it were practiced in real life. Come June, our business will be five years old, and the Mayor of our fair community has never been through our doors flashing a Visa card. Not once, and neither has our Chief of Police.

There is a duality here that is difficult for me to resolve. To be charitable, perhaps the Mayor abstains from alcohol or simply does not appreciate fine wine. I can accept those as valid reasons, but I know for a fact that he eats, and we’ve had a restaurant open for a year, offering a wide range of alternative, non-alcoholic beverages.

Whether or not the Mayor avails himself of the joys of visiting Carpe Vino is immaterial to me. It is our good fortune that so many other people have discovered the place and the fine dining experience we offer, paired with an incredible selection of wines that belies the fact that Carpe Vino serves a community of just 12,500 people located on the distant edge of civilization.
What we understood early on in developing Carpe Vino is that we had to reach out beyond our municipal borders if we were to survive even marginally. We’ve been blessed in that our business has been recognized with accolades published in the Sacramento Bee, Sacramento Magazine and Sunset, and as a result, our patrons come from far and wide—even out of state. It is remarkable to me, and it is rewarding to see people enjoy themselves so mightily in the place.

Nothing brings me greater joy, however, than to welcome back my friends and neighbors who frequent the joint. Recognizing people by name and recommending a wine I know they will appreciate without question is what the hospitality business is all about. After nearly five years of doing this, we’ve got it dialed in, and we love what we’re doing. . .bringing a modest level of civility to Old Town Auburn.

So, Mr. Mayor, at the end of the day, the polite thing is to thank you for your kind note. It is always nice to be appreciated, and please know that you are welcome in Carpe Vino any time.

Part II: Trader Who? Good Lord, I am in Harmony with the Auburn Journal
One of the characteristics of Auburn I truly appreciate is the fact that the homogenization of America has thus far failed to envelope this community and smother the features that make it so unique and appealing—especially for those of us whom have come over from the dark side of big-city life.

Sure, within Auburn or very nearby in the County we have four Starbucks, all manner of fast-food franchises, Target, Kmart and someday soon a Home Depot. It’s not exactly a perfect world, but balanced against this blandness and sameness of the mainstream, we have so many wonderful independent, one-of-a-kind businesses to patronize and celebrate. These are establishments never to be replicated anywhere, typically run by dedicated and passionate people committed to an idea who know how to work hard to achieve a simple goal.

All you need do is cruise the streets to see our good fortune. There’s Winston Smith, the little book store that could. Hey, there’s Depoe Bay. . .gotta love Dion’s coffee and you have to appreciate all of the knuckle-busting work his family put into their great new addition. And that Brian Ford is going to change the face of Old Town with his new Auburn Alehouse now under construction. A zenith will rise from the ashes of the Shanghai only because a young entrepreneur has the innate creative juice plus the stones to step up and invest what it takes to bring an inspiration to fruition.

Everywhere you turn there are wonderful jewelry stores, flower shops, specialty clothing boutiques and restaurants. Oh, the restaurants. For a town our size, we are truly blessed with so many fine options.

“Idyllic” is not the exact word to describe what we have here, but it comes damned close. Auburn is a special place that needs to be embraced and preserved in harmony with the reality of a changing world. Growth is inevitable, and with it comes many new residents whose lifestyle expectations were defined in metropolitan environments. They want what they want. . .both a cute, little Western town and easy access to Costco, The Gap and now Trader Joe’s through an overt initiative led by Auburn’s City Council.
I’m told Trader Joe’s is a fine store, but I don’t know for sure. I’ve only been in the Roseville store once to purchase Charles Shaw wine (aka “Two-Buck Chuck) when it was introduced a couple of years ago. (I was predictably underwhelmed, but for two bucks you get what you deserve.)

The relative worth of Trader Joe’s is immaterial to me. What leaves me so puzzled is why is our City Council is so purposefully stalking this national brand? Certainly promoting economic development is a legitimate pursuit of our elected officials; picking winners and losers, however, is not a function of any city government.

Yet that is exactly what Mayor Bob Snyder seeks to do through a futile series of public relations stunts conceived to attract the attention of the development people at Trader Joe’s. The City’s campaign rolled out recently in local newspapers with a photo op of four Council members decked out in Trader-Joe's inspired Hawaiian shirts. Other events planned include sending a flotilla of inflatable rafts down the American River flying banners urging TJ’s to set up shop here.

All I can say is it’s a good thing Mayor Snyder isn’t in the dating world because “no” means “no,” and overtures from Auburn have been rebuked repeatedly. When a woman says “no,” it is typically because of a lack of chemistry. When a corporation says “no” it means the best-case return is insufficient and/or there is no fit with the organization’s business strategies.

Take a look at the Trader Joe’s web site, and you don’t have to have an MBA to understand how this company operates: it clusters stores in upscale, densely populated urban and suburban areas. The closest TJ's to Auburn is located precisely 15.59 miles distant in Roseville. Then a trail of stores located near freeways extends from Folsom to Fair Oaks to Sacramento (two locations) and ends in Elk Grove, 39.4 miles from Auburn’s front door.

That’s a spread of less than 24 miles between the five locations. And there’s not another store to be found anywhere in our general geographic region. My guess is Trader Joe’s will construct a new store in Natomas before we get one in Auburn. I have not spoken to anyone at the firm’s corporate headquarters (I don’t want to waste any more of their time with this silliness), but I expect we’ll see John Doolittle’s damn built in Auburn before Trader Joe’s breaks ground in our little piece of paradise.
The City Council’s unilateral action to woo Trader Joe’s offends me on three basic levels, raising these obvious questions:

--Who decided to pitch a single company rather than make broader overtures to additional firms of the same ilk such as Whole Foods and Nugget Market?

--What kinds of incentives were our City Elders prepared to extend to lure Trader Joe’s? Were they willing to give away the store in order to get immediate access to such staples as Irish soda bread and fennel antiplaque toothpaste?

--Why didn’t the City Council pose the question to the people. . .do we need a place like Trader Joe’s in Auburn? All I heard was anecdotal babble—far short of a groundswell of demand. To my knowledge, there have been no demonstrations in the street at the Courthouse.

Something far more disturbing to me has resulted from this little episode, and all I can do is shake my head in bewilderment: I am in agreement with the editorial board of the Auburn Journal. General Manager cum Editor Deric Rothe must have had the day off because the Journal spanked the City Council in print on March 18. I was astounded to read this:

“And, the city should not be promoting one business over another, just because the council's friends and family like to shop there. There are shopping centers within the city that deserve more of the council's and city staff's attention.“A flurry of recent letters to the editor contained complaints about the Auburn Police Department. But rather than invite taxpaying residents to air their complaints and seek possible solutions in a public forum, the council donned Hawaiian shirts and have called themselves Trader Bob, Trader Bridget, Trader Keith, Trader Kevin and Trader Mike. “In a city in which a dog was once nominated for mayor by a councilman, it should be no surprise that small-town shenanigans are still the norm.”

The fact that I am in sync with the Auburn Journal on these issues made me question my world as I understand it, and I sunk into a deep, dark funk from which I am still attempting to recover. For the full text of the editorial, go to: http://www.auburnjournal.com/articles/2007/03/18/opinion/editorials/01traderjoe18.txt

The way I see it, we’ve got everything we need in Auburn without a Trader Who. If you want great cuts of beef, pork and more, may I suggest you visit Longhorn Meats out on Lincoln Way? Absolutely fabulous and I shop there frequently.

Are you in the market for organic fruits and vegetables or specialty food items? Then go to Newcastle Produce, or better yet, hit the Farmer’s Market on Saturday mornings. I go every week if I am in town and shop till I drop. The Farmer’s Market has it all and much more than simply great vegetables and fruits. The world’s freshest seafood is brought in by the Little Fish Company. Ophir Winery and Green Family Winery are there, too, as are booths selling fresh breads, coffee and wonderful olive oils. Check it out, and perhaps you'll agree that we don't need no Trade Who.

One of the compelling reasons I moved to Auburn was specifically because of the limited number of chain and box stores and all they imply. I appreciated the lack of stand-up concrete structures surrounded by acres of pavement. Does that make me anti-growth and mired in what was instead of what is? Hardly.

I’ve lived here for more than seven years now, and I feel comfortable expressing my opinions. So I have this suggestion for the chain-store and box-store lovers of Auburn: If you absolutely have to have access to all of the amenities of the industrialized world, consider moving down the hill. You’d be much more comfortable in a place like Roseville or Rocklin (great towns, to be sure). Or, just plan your trips wisely. You can hit Sam’s Club, BevMo and Trader Joe’s all in one fell swoop.

Auburn is what it is, and that’s what I love about it. What's the point in destroying the treasure we call "home?"

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